Parquet Floor Restoration

The snug has a parquet floor in pitch pine about 30mm thick which is very rare these days.    I guess it was laid when the new facade was built around 1920 and since covered with carpet.   It is lovely but wasn’t laid all that well. The bitumen adhesive makes a good damp course under the blocks but they mortared it into the walls instead of leaving a gap and some damp came through, notably where they built a car park 12 inches above the inside ground level.

It will end up being be a good 2 or 3 weeks of work and a bunch of money to fix the floor, but it is charming and one of the few original features remaining inside from the 1920s so I want to have a crack at it!

rotten-parquet

The car park was fixed with a trench, and I have cut a gap below the plaster to allow an air gap between the parquet and the walls which will be covered by skirting.

Much of my parquet was rotten but I managed to find some close to the right size on eBay that I could cut down on a chop saw.   My rate for cleaning bitumen off was about 2 square meters per day, sometimes with a Bacho 665 paint scraper and other times with a heat gun depending on the type of bitumen.

peugeot-parquet

This project has been going since June in bits and pieces.   Now all of the parquet has all been cleaned but remains of bitumen on the floor still need to be flattened with the paint scraper.   There are modern glues that can stick to bitumen but modern glues will be difficult to remove in the future so I’m still taking advice.

Apart from all that I’m almost ready to lay a floor!

snug-floor-lifted

The low points in the floor were filled with Ardex 45 rapid, and I’m using Black Jack roofing adhesive to fix the parquet, buttering the blocks for good adhesion.   Both were recommended by the floor sander.  The roofing adhesive is nice to work with but takes weeks to set (heating the room helps).

The trick to laying parquet is to work to a string line.  If the blocks all line up then the gaps will be OK on the next row.  The wall edges take a long time as the blocks need to be cut to fit.

bitumin

It takes a surprising amount of time to lay parquet – two weeks to be exact.  I got fed up with it.   It didn’t help that I ran out of blocks and had to cut the face off some thin worn blocks then glue ply to the rear to bring them back to the right thickness.   I’ll try to get the room more finished before sanding and finishing.

parquet-laid

Pretty Picture

I wanted to post a photo of the front of the house as I haven’t done that in a while and all the scrolling is a pain when I want to show it to someone.   The house is starting to look tidy in places.

front-new-bay

Not a lot of progress to report.   I’ve finished the windows – they took a long time!   I’ve mortared in the new windows for air tightness and painted another coat on some of the windows so they are finished now on the outside.

Also booked a skip and had a good tidy, removed some ivy, put a bed and a radiator back into the bedroom I decorated.  All bitty things but worth doing while the weather was still good.

. bathroom-sash

I’ve finished outside for the rest of the year and hopefully will get the snug and kitchen closer to finished over the winter.

Snug Window Repairs

Slow updates – I’ve been in Sweden again.   I painted the front windows when I moved in 5 years ago, but it turns out modern oil based gloss paint is not UV resistant and the paint cracked after only a couple of years.  Problem is when you have cracked paint you need to remove it (and everything underneath) before repainting.

The front windows have very fiddly profiles and it took about 3 days to remove the modern paint with a heat gun.   Linseed paint is UV resistant and tends to dust rather than crack and just needs another splash of paint rather than stripping off, so I’ll be repainting in linseed so I can avoid doing any stripping ever again!

snug-window-stripped

When I first moved in I thought the windows were beyond repair, but looking at them now I see window frames in really good condition.

I guess the difference after 5 years is just confidence and knowing what can be done to repair them.  There is just one sill that needs to be replaced and a couple of mullions that will need some new wood letting in.   I’ve got a bunch of photos of the rotten sill and they are all in focus but appear out of focus.  The camera has seen much worse and I’m not sure why it is objecting now.

rotten-sill

Maybe the camera was right.  The sill was quite rotten and I ended up removing it right back to the inner face of the window.  The rot in the mullions has been cut out at an angle to allow water to drain when the finish cracks.

That committed me to the scary bit – it would be my first time replacing a window sill, and this one is in a curved bay which complicates things.   I practiced on modern wood before attempting the repair.

sill-removed

The new sill was made from the sill of the original sash removed from the back bedroom – 100 year old wood is much more durable than the stuff available today and also much harder to cut.

The curve was cut with a bandsaw and the taper added with a planer.   Repairs to the profiled mullions were cut with the bandsaw.  A new box of chisels was involved too.   I’m quite pleased with myself – some tidying still needed but it looks the part.

new-sill

The gaps and cracks were filled with linseed putty and the first coat of linseed oil paint is looking fabulous.   I went for black to match the rest of the woodwork on the facade and to balance the top-heavy look of the half timber upper floor.  I prefer it to the before photo of the facade here, but it doesn’t seem quite right yet.

window-painted

I still need to fill around the window with lime mortar, then paint another coat or two.   Also the lead roof still needs to be fitted.  I’ve been stripping the inside of the window on and off as the profiles look prettier without 1mm of paint, but that will be a fill in job as I’m determined to work outside while the weather allows.

New Windows!

John came over to fit the 3 upstairs windows this week (he made them at the same time as the kitchen window but I hadn’t got around to preparing the openings until recently).  The windows were made from Douglas fir painted with linseed paint and have double glazing and sealing strips.  They operate very smoothly.

new-kitchen-bathroom-windows

I still need to do something with the arch on the downstairs window which has sagged a bit.   Here is a before picture:

old-kitchen-window

The rear of the house has some nice features.   I’m tempted to remove the flat roof infill with the patio doors to the left to expose the walls and let a bit more light inside.

Electrics Second Fix

Second fix electrics started today and is already more than half complete.   I’m excited to have lots of lights and switches and sockets in the kitchen now.   I forgot to buy bulbs!

After the lights went in I started fiddling around with kitchen layout again and moved the fridge for at least the third time.  I no longer need to incorporate an enormous American fridge freezer, so I have space for a table at the end if I can find somewhere else to put a normal fridge (represented by a cardboard box for now).   Mostly the lights are still in the right place.

kitchen-layout

The new consumer unit is fitted, and will eventually be inside a nice cupboard with a shelf above.   The old one will have to remain until the rest of the house is rewired and the hole in the ceiling above it will  make decoration tricky.   Fortunately I have a floor to finish before I need to worry too much about that.

fusebox

We haven’t had much history for a while!  I changed my mind about a couple of light locations and pulled the bedroom floorboards up again.    This is the floor above the very bendy ancient ceiling in the snug with inch thick straw plaster.    The floorboards are up to 9 inches wide, and the beams near the chimney are 7 inches square.

The huge beams have been re-purposed from somewhere and I guess they were installed when the chimney was built.  The wiring is passing through handy mortise holes so the beams are on their side now, but previously they must once have been the middle beam in a 2 storey wall.   My first best guess was the chimney was added somewhere around the year 1700 based on the thin wide bricks and English bond brickwork, but the joists further into the room are neatly sawn 1.5 inches by 6 inches which would have needed more technology than they had in 1700 so I need to do more research!

floor-beams

Some time later – the magic of electricity!   There is a light switch near every door, but I’m so used to having no lights I still stumble through the rooms in darkness.

I bought a bunch of random clearance LED bulbs really cheap from Screwfix and have been experimenting.  The light to the right is 2700K and the orange lights in the alcoves are 1800K.    I shall experiment some more once the room is decorated.

light-bulbs

Preparing for New Sash Windows

Finally a building regs change of use job unless I get distracted.   They want me to replace a pretend sash window in a bedroom for fire egress.  There are another couple of other late 20th century windows that would need secondary glazing and it’s only twice the price to just replace them to get all the windows to match.

There is some prep work before the new windows can be fitted – I’m missing both the stone sill and the brick arch in the bathroom window, and want to replace a cracked stone sill which is falling towards the house in a bedroom.

The bathroom window may have been installed in 1996 (judging by the newspaper stuck into the gaps) but the wood sill was quite rotten.  It came out very easily – fortunately the cement wasn’t stuck to the bricks!  The new windows will look like the replacement kitchen window.

bathroom-window-removed

The new stone sill is now fitted in the bathroom window opening and I’ve trial fitted the new brick arch for the first time.  It nearly fits, though the mortar gaps are still a little small.  The Georgians never added an arch to this window so I’m copying the Edwardian arches further along the wall.   The middle of the arches are all 1 1/2 inches higher than the edges whatever the width which simplifies things as every opening is a different width.

trial-fit-arch

There is another heatwave at the moment which is very bad for lime mortar but great for linseed oil paint.  I’ll get on with gloss work inside and finish the arch next week when the weather cools.

Linseed paint is a real pain – it is lovely to apply but takes well over a day to dry to the touch, then never really drys because it is oil not paint.  But it’s fantastic stuff!  It’s why you can still find original Geoirgian windows around.   A 200 year life would be pushing it for modern paints which crack after 3 years and then trap the moisture needed to rot the wood.

painted windows

I’ve exposed an original stone window sill in the bedroom and have added a photo only because I couldn’t find a photo on the internet while researching my missing sills.   The wall is maybe late Georgian or early Victorian, but (edit) I’m going to bet the sill is from 1920 and was re-purposed from the bricked up window in the other bathroom.  I ordered a new sill to replace it, but the crack wasn’t that bad so I’ll save the sill for when I reinstate the window in the original location.

The sill is flat and 9 inches wide, same as the wall thickness, but set with a 2 inch overhang and also extends 2 or 3 inches either side of the outside opening.   That leaves a bit extending inwards to support the sash window.   I’m not sure mine ever had a fall to shed water, but the new ones are going in with roughly 1 in 25 fall.

stone-sill

The arch is finished and I’m quite pleased that it looks like it has always been there.   Must have been as it turns out to be nearly impossible to retrofit an arch directly under the roof.

Access was limited by the roof and guttering and no access from above made the last brick especially challenging requiring a gravity defying brick pointing finger (I use cut down table knives) to apply a very small amount of mortar at a time, then on edge to compress it down to the base of the arch.   Much mortar ended up on the ground.

window-arch

I messed up on the window height for the bedroom window.  The sill had a fall back towards the house, and resetting it to fall away from the house reduced the space available for the window and  now I’m 10mm short.

The lintel was squint and looked a bit loose so I’ve taken the opportunity to re-bed the lintel a little higher which gives most of the space I need.  The sill might end up being a tiny bit low but I have some room to work with now and can at least get a little mortar underneath it.

bedroom-window-hole

Of course as soon as I make a huge hole in the bedroom wall we have heavy rain and thunderstorms!  The trick to sill fitting is to set out the sill on spacers and then push the mortar 3 inches underneath from each side and compress with the pointing finger.

The old window went quickly back in the opening after it started raining, and the new fall to the sill turns out to make it thunderstorm proof.  Even with all the gaps no water got in at all despite the heavy rain bouncing off the glass.  The two bricks above the sill are a job for tomorrow – the thunderstorm was quite unexpected as I hadn’t looked at the weather.   Waterproofing seems to be more about falls than sealing everything up.   I’m tempted to seal the new windows in with lime mortar which should allow the wood to dry after thunderstorms faster than burnt linseed sand.  Not using silicone as that would rot the wood even when it isn’t raining.

new-sill-bedroom

With the scaffold tower down it looks so cool to have an arch and a sill in the bathroom opening – they transform the window.   The new window is loosely in place behind the arch former, but only the top sash is resting in there at the moment.   I’ll post some before and after pictures after the new windows are fitted.

The same bricks were used in the photos below and above.   I think the north wall is so clean because it was limewashed from new.

bathroom-window-opening

A photo of the new bathroom window here.

Plastering the Snug

I’m sweating away in the heatwave doing plaster repair in the snug.   There is not much to see in the photo – a lot of the snug was back to brickwork behind the late 20th century wood paneling and the leak from the bay window and the electricians took a bit more off.   I’ve patched that all back to level, but the Georgian plaster on the other walls is in poor condition having been messed with and will likely need a skim.

The ceiling is remarkable.   It has an inch of plaster with straw reinforcement.   It is probably the oldest and most bendy bit of plaster left exposed in the building so I’ll not mess with it apart from filling in some of the larger gaps and then lots of lining paper.

snug-plaster-started

I ran out of lime plaster and took a break to paint the upstairs bedroom.  After the new plaster arrived I skimmed 2 walls and have a nice flat and smooth finish.  I used Ecomortar R50 ultra fine plaster – it is lime based with some additives to help it stick to different backgrounds and something to make it set in a couple of hours to avoid shrinkage cracking, but it still seems reasonably breathable.  Turns out to be a lot quicker to skim than to patch.

snug-walls

Working around the room the fireplace is next.   The original plaster was quite thick so the scratch coat will take a few days to dry before I can skim over the whole fireplace.  Next is figuring out how to plasterboard the stud wall with the electrics in the way.

fireplace-scratch-coat

This is a bit more like it.   I didn’t quite get the curved edge for the front of the fireplace while plastering (I have a cunning plan for a bit of apparent craftsmanship in the snug).  The latest idea is using a guide propped up by bits of wood together with a concrete edging trowel with some spacers glued to the edge.

To the left of the fireplace the wires in the cable entry for the new consumer unit are propped up while glue for the slate insert dries.  I’ll wrap some intumescent pipe wrap around the wires.   I don’t want any electrical fires getting into the void behind the plasterboard as it is ventilated to the roof space to keep the external timber frame dry, but the inside stud walls are all filled with the horribly combustible insulation they insist on these days.  The stud wall is there for the same reason as the upstairs stud wall – I want to be able to replace the common bricks used outside to replace the bottom of the timber frame with some nicer ones.

fireplace-plastered

Finally looking in the same direction as the first photo and almost ready for decorating (apart from to the right of the window where the old electrics will have to remain until the other side of the house has been rewired).  I’ll paint directly on the plaster behind the new electrics – it is mean to wallpaper behind consumer units!

snug-plastering-finished

New Snug Bay Window Roof

The problem with the Snug roof was it used to fall towards the house.   Water would puddle until it was deep enough to overflow to the front.   I think the roof was built with no fall, then started falling towards the house as the timber framed facade settled with the weight of all the brick infill  This photo was taken April 2015.

puddle-on-bay

Setting up to make the roof fall away from the house turned out to be unreasonably complicated.  If I made the rear of the roof straight it would end up 40mm too high at each end so I set up from the front of the curved bay.   Wedges cut to fit on top of the existing joists are set to about a 1 in 50 fall which means the roof has ended up higher in the middle than at the ends. Fortunately It looks OK from across the road.

The way to do this is to clamp a new bit of wood to the side of the existing joist, set the new wood to the correct height and angle, then draw a pencil line from the existing joist for cutting.   I’ve gone for a small ventilation gap under the front of the roof and added 100mm of insulation with an air space above before the roof went on.

snug-roof-wedges

The roof is made from redwood tongue in grove planks (which were cupped making them a real hassle to work with).   John suggested using a circular saw to cut the curve and it worked a treat.

I’ve gone for an inch more overhang than before to make sure the roof drips past the stone sill below.

roof-planked

Hopefully it won’t rain too much before I get the leadworkers in.

Snug Bay Lintel Repair

I had been putting off the snug bay window.   The roof falls towards the house and has leaked for a long time.   A temporary roof covering went on over a year ago after we knocked off some failed plaster and found wet structural wood behind.

snug-bay-roof

The reason I had put off the job was concern about rot in the lintel visible from below.   Thankfully it was nowhere near as bad as I feared.   The bearing surface had rotten causing the lintel to fall by about 10mm,  but the rot was localised and the rest of the beam was still in surprisingly good condition.

beam-end-rot

All the beam needed was a new end.   A steel plate will now act as a bearer for the lintel.   Next job is to fix the hole that has appeared in the bay roof.    I’m planning a new bay roof that falls away from the house.

steel-plate

Snug Fireplace

The bedroom is finished apart from paint and I’ve started on the snug.   I’m planning to fit a wood burner and have removed the late 20th century fireplace to get back to the builders opening.

The brickwork is not presentable and will need to be plastered.  My idea is to leave a brick arch exposed to add some interest.   In the photo the arch former is in position for a trial fit of the arch.  The OSB board above the baby acros is there to provide a surface to line up the face of the arch which will be 10mm proud of the brickwork.

arch-template

The arch uses the same bricks as in the main room.  The colour differences between the bricks should be reduced when they are sealed. Failing that I will have a multi-coloured arch.

It’s a bit mean to future historians to build the arch in 100 year old bricks so I’ve made good use of red bricks left over from the new build next door to fill gaps where fireplace mounting wood was removed, and also a couple of loose bricks above the arch that I have saved to match replacement bricks for the exterior wall.

arch-complete

I think the sides of the fireplace opening will need to be plastered as the corners of the bricks have been knocked off.  Possibly I will be able to only plaster the corners and make a nice curve.   I’ll likely leave the back of the opening in sooty brick.

Plaster Conservation (with Lining Paper)

The Bedroom is one of the older rooms in the house.   The blue colour is distemper on top of haired lime plaster on wattle and daub. The pink (a gypsum skim over lime) was applied by the people* who filled in the door opening to the right, raised the ceiling, then chopped a new door opening through the wall plate!

*I’ve been calling them Edwardians but it seems that Gypsum became popular only after WW1 when skilled plasterers were killed and a new generation took over.   The remodel was complete before 1926 and started after William Thomas became landlord in 1910.  I’m going to change my estimate to 1920.

I’ve exposed the beams (I think the wall plates were originally exposed or hidden by the ceiling.  The tie beam was originally above the ceiling).

bedroom-plaster

The original plaster was protected by wallpaper and is still in reasonable condition after several hundred years.  Originally lining paper was applied before paint, and it is is lovely to be able to take off layers and layers of paint and get back to nice smooth plaster using only a wallpaper stripper.

So I’m being nice to future restorers and covering the original plaster back up with lining paper before paint (using a cold water paste so the paper can come off again in the future).   It is my first time wallpapering and lining paper seems forgiving.   On the far wall the outline of the timber frame is quite visible through the paper.

lining-paper

It looks a lot better with the lining paper finished.   I went for maybe 0.5mm or 1mm gap between the sheets, then painted the joints, then used filler to hide the gap.    The paint allows the filler to be sanded a little and the joints in the paper aren’t noticeable after paint.

lining-finished

A bit of paint later and the room is closer to being finished.   Ceiling needs another coat and I might yet continue the wall paint past the beams towards the ceiling.

bedroom-paint

I did end up painting up to the ceiling above the beams.   Looks more balanced, but there is something very nice about bare wood against white walls.

I’m back – with a beam

After getting home it took a while to build up the enthusiasm to start again.  I burned out a bit in Finland and lost a couple of months getting myself back together.

I’m starting on a bedroom.  There were some beams sticking out of the wall left over from the 17th century structure which had been plastered over and then painted gloss black.  I thought they would look nicer exposed, but one of them had been really roughed up to take the plaster.

beam1

The wood was really tough!  I ended up spending a day with a very sharp hand axe to take the surface off.  With some sanding (after the photo was taken) to reduce the axe marks it isn’t looking too bad.   It isn’t the prettiest beam in the world but doesn’t look quite so objectionable.

beam2

More soon.   I’ve been plastering!

It’s winter now! So, err, progress…..

I’ve ignored the house completely since the last update (apart from a 3 month spring clean).   I have been having lots of fun instead. I’ve also been busy earning money and hopefully have enough to finish the work on the house.

I’m off to Finland for 3 months now, but I’m planning to take the summer off again so I can get the house closer to being finished.   Hold your breath – I’ll post again in April or May with news of progress…..

winter

It’s July now. So, erm, progress….

I’m still alive but not much has happened on the house since the last blog entry.   I’ve been busy – I came back from Sweden at the end of May then went to Finland for a few weeks.

Since the last post I have been on a ‘diet’ and have lost 5kg (the remaining 7kg is sticking out in the photo below).  My cunning plan is to burn off more energy than I eat so I’ve taken up cycling.   40 miles of cycling burns a whole day of calories.

I’ve been working on getting a social life too. Someone allegedly once said “it’s summer – go out and have some fun as you’ll be spending half the winter back in Finland.  And don’t worry about the kitchen or the plastering in the snug – they will probably sort themselves out”.  Wise words….

grafham-water

Kitchen Floor Tiles

The kitchen has been moving on over the last month.  The plastering has been completed and the walls painted.   There is a ‘before’ photo of the kitchen here.

I took a couple of days off to give Rocco a hand laying the floor tiles and am exhausted now.  I’m not used to doing work.   The tiles are Elon Mexican Saltillo Teracotta from Terra Firma tiles and still need to be sealed with many coats of linseed oil and waxed.

kitchen-tiles

I spent a lot of time going around tile shops but the current styles seemed drab.  It is amazing that these hand made tiles were available for cheaper than the normal offerings. They are uneven under foot being hand made – I think flatter tiles might have been better  The linseed oil makes the tiles darker:

linseed-floor-tiles

Of course Mexican tiles are made from the most absorbent material known to man.   In the photo the 6th coat of linseed oil is soaking in.   The 7th coat is soaking in more slowly so I must be nearly there..

floor-tiles-drying

Kitchen, Snug and Bedroom – Even More Progress

It’s only been a month since the last post and look at the difference!    The side of the house we are working on has first fix electrics, the door frames are in and the internal stud walls have been plastered.  The external walls have a base coat of lime plaster which is taking a very long time to dry in the cold weather, but hopefully will dry more quickly now the dehumidifier and heater are running.

kitchen-plastered

The snug next to the kitchen is a very old room that has survived largely intact with it’s wattle & daub and it’s inch thick straw plaster.   Some damage was exposed when the wood panelling was removed, and some great chunks of cement fell out of the walls.   The base coat of lime is drying and the walls have been prepared for a skim coat in lime.    I want to paper the ceiling and walls with lining paper so they can be rescued again more easily in the future.

snug-prep-for-plaster

The sole plate in the internal wall of the snug turned out to be underground and therefore rotten.   Normally sole plates are a good 15 inches above ground on brick plinths and therefore dry.  I put this wall down to lazy Jacobean builders!  The wall doesn’t support much any more so we’ll prop the posts up on bricks and remove the sole plate.

buried-sole-plate

Meanwhile upstairs, the bedroom ceiling has been skimmed which neatly hides the artex, the bit that I put my foot through while insulating the loft, and the rotten bit that Rocco replaced with lath and lime.   The floor boards are up near the window because I wasn’t convinced by the Edwardian approach to joist hanging.    It is a good opportunity to finish off the plastering around the window – the scratch coat went on 2 years ago.

bedfoom-mess

Kitchen Progress

I’ve not posted for a while as I’ve been very busy with work, but Rocco is working on the kitchen and is doing a fabulous job.   It has moved on a lot since the last kitchen post.

I had thought to expose the 17th century oak frame in the kitchen, but the oven will now sit against that wall so we decided to protect the original timber frame with plasterboard.   Unblocking the bricked up door to the snug has allowed a lot of light into the dark end of the kitchen.

kitchen-timber-frame

The internal wall insulation is almost complete.   I’ve gone for woodfibre board insulation and lime plaster to keep the external walls breathable.   The causes for most of the water ingress should now be fixed, but there is still no damp course so modern materials are out.

The ceiling has been levelled with some new bits of wood sistering the joists, mostly because correcting the slope allows space for the oven extractor duct.  None of the walls are vertical because the house is squint, but we’ve gone for straight walls which will be handy when we install a work surface.

kitchen-insulation

We are getting towards the fun bit where little features start to appear.   A yorkstone step in the door to the utility room went in this morning.   It looks a bit new at the moment but should look suitably old in a couple of hundred years.

kitchen-stepp

We are ready for the first fix electrical work next week (apart from me figuring out all the socket positions).   I’ve managed to organise a trip to Sweden next week, but will have a day with the electrician before I leave.

Kitchen Window

The original sash window in the kitchen had been replaced by a picture window in the 1980s, but the original crooked brick arch remained in place.  We decided a sash window would look nicer.

kitchen-window2

It was quite a job to remove the concrete lintels from above the picture window,   We removed them in two halves so half the opening remained supported while we bricked up the other half.

kitchen-window-brickwork

The new window was made by John to match the original Edwardian windows elsewhere in the house and looks lovely.   He made another 3 windows for upstairs which we will fit next year when the weather warms up a bit.

new-kitchen-window

Update – Kitchen and Snug

The flood put a couple of rooms out of action and has prompted some ‘re-decoration’ over the winter months.    The kitchen was already out of action, and the plan is to connect the kitchen to the snug to form some sort of kitchen diner.

The modern waterproof coatings, the bar and the wood panelling have largely been stripped from the snug putting it back roughly where it might have been around the year 1900.   My nieces will have great fun with the two doors.

snug

The east wall in the kitchen has been a bother.   Following earlier modifications the east side of the house was supported only by a couple of half bricks sitting at a jaunty angle.   In the photo the door to the utility room is being rebuilt using proper lintels to replace the pretend lintels made of fence post.  Also we’re putting some bricks underneath the lintels this time around.

kitchen-door

Things are moving forward at an exciting speed, but there is so much to do it’ll still take years.  With the high speed of things I should have another more interesting update next week so don’t go away.

The Great Flood of 2016

The muppet who installed the cold water tank in the loft neglected to include a pipe from the overflow to outside.   Unfortunately I was in Sweden when the ball cock failed and had to travel home early.

In the loft I have removed the wet insulation to allow the ceiling to dry.   It was only installed last year.

wet-loft

The water flowed into Kae’s bedroom soaking everything. The carpet and bed have gone to the tip.  I don’t know how the floor stayed so dry – the carpet was soaking.

wet-bedroom

From there it poured into the snug, mostly avoiding the kitchen that was stored there, but soaking most of Kae’s things.    It did a good job of removing the wood chip wallpaper from the ceiling.

wet-snug

Rocco came over to help remove the carpets and clear out water damaged things.

junk

The one good thing is this is an old house and the breathable construction hasn’t suffered much damage and should dry out OK.   Wouldn’t have fancied having a flood like this in a modern house.

I have purchased an overflow pipe for the water tank.   It cost £15 and will take about half an hour to fit.